We were two hours into the mountain gorilla trek when I broke down in tears. My ankles were stinging from nettles, my arms scratched from thorns but still the guide continued hacking away at the untouched wilderness before us with a machete knife. We would find that set of baby gorilla twins we’d been promised, even if it killed us.
If I’d known beforehand that this particular trek was the most difficult of all, I probably wouldn’t have signed up to it. Every five minutes I found myself examining the freshness of another pile of excrement, in the hope of finding a silverback around the corner.
But each dissection always led to disappointment and my heart would sink as the American tourists cracked open another packet of Oreos to help them along their way.
Eventually though, just as I thought I might have to be helicoptered out of the forest, we did stumble across a group of about 20 gorillas. They were of course too preoccupied with munching on bamboo to be at all bothered by our presence, but being in theirs was one of the most amazing moments I think I’ll ever experience.
Rwanda is a country full of amazing moments like this. But as I discovered when I travelled to the Nyungwe forest for BBC World’s travel programme Fast Track, the country is also about so much more than gorilla treks and museums..